Cruising Up the Nile

Just a few further thoughts on our cruise up the Nile. We visited Karnak Temple in Luxor soon to be designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Went from the boat by Horse and Carriage through the old streets built over a period of 200 years and full of antiquities.   Tricia’s horse farted the whole way and in the early morning heat was something too much to take. Pat of course took myriad photos and was then chased by little man shouting madly – Pat ignoring assuming more money required but no! he insisted in giving her second copy of photo. God knows what she paid for the first one!

The Temple was superb and we all understand a little more of the complexities of life 3000 years ago.

At Edfu Pat was adopted by Mustafa complete with business card of a hole in the wall shop. She requested photo – he obliged but Pat had promised to return later but later she avoided him by swapping hats with Aussie guy and hid under it so Mustafa would not recognise her. Mustafa last seen running frantically peering under hats. The temple by the way was stunning. Too hot for us anyway 38deg.

Then on  to Komombo  -and the Temple of Sobek – ABT!!!

Thankfully the rest of the day we blobbed on the top deck while the Nile drifted serenely past then prepared ourselves in detail for an Egyptian Meal – all dressed up in finery to look like Cleopatras and had a lot of fun boogying the night away– full moon shining on the Nile – Bliss!!

Next morning we arrived in Aswan – more of a civilised city – “no bloody hassles” visited the Temple of Isis rescued from the rising Nile waters and relocated to Philae Island – an absolute gem then some to the Nubian Museum – a must see and some to the Nubian Bazaar both worth visiting.

In the evening we sailed on a Felucca up the Nile – gorgeous reclining on cushions drinking Mint Tea and listening to the silence of the Nile.  In the evening we had the privilege of visiting a Nubian school on an island and saw first- hand how children are educated in the very poor part of the country.  We then had dinner with a local family on the roof of their very Spartan but very clean home – personal friends of our guide. The children were gorgeous of course and the family very welcoming to us. Poor but proud!

Back to the boat by water taxi – a lovely day in a very nice city. Some of us were ripped off big time by taxi driver.. You win some you lose some!

Up at 3..30am to travel to Abu Simbel – four gargantuan statues of Ramses 11 guarding the great temple.  One of our most memorable visits and we are in awe of the technology of the relocation of the temple from the edge of the Nile further up the cliff face not to mention the temple itself.

Then back to Aswan to pack and catch the overnight train back to Cairo arriving at 5.30 the next morning bleary-eyed and longing for a full night’s sleep.   We  were back in the luxury of our Pyramids hotel. To freshen up then back on the tourist track we visited the Old City – the city of the Dead (cemetery) where today thousands live amongst the graves for want of somewhere better to live followed by a visit to two mosques and then on to the Khan al-Khalili Bazaar where we again hassled and bartered with varying  degrees success – much fun – thousands of touts and not many tourists – again the calls of “Welcome to Egypt” . Dinner that night an hour’s drive to the Citadel to farewell some of the Aussies who have become our friends.  Local cuisine fab food – we were the only non-Egyptians there!

Luxury – sleep in this morning with 5.30am call and bussed through Sinai under the Suez Canal along the coast and across the desert  and desolate it is – Tanks, armed military and machine guns in abundance but army about as energetic as all Egyptians.  Arrived in Oasis St Catherines  at the base of Mt Sinai – 8 hours drive and two of us have left to climb the mountain while the rest of us sensibly recline drinking wine- contrary to popular belief  no problem buying -  by the pool.

Over and out for now from  the Sevenontour.

Egypt!

The first day of our tour proper we met with the other 5 members - now 7 kiwis and 6 Aussies - they are great and we have melded into one group. Our Tour leader is Ayman - lovely young man who is a bit shell shocked at having us to take care of.  We will try not to give him a hard time but any thing is possible.

Because of the revolution Tourist numbers are way down - good for us but a tragedy for the Egyptians who rely so heavily on tourism for income.  They are all very welcoming and we feel completely safe getting around apart from the crazy traffic where everyone risks life and limb including children and babies being dragged across the streets between cars and trucks and everyone tooting madly . We had our own security policeman who indicated it was like herding cats.  He was fully armed and never left us alone for a minute except when we all went in different directions.

First up was the obligatory visit to the pyramids and the sphinx - easy with so few tourists.  I didn’t go inside the chambers but some did and relished the experience.

We went early before the heat and after lunch Egyptian takeaway not McDonalds!  Visited the dusty Egyptian museum soaked in history - stupendous collection of antiquities.  All exhibits available including tutenkhamens mask, royal jewels beds, chairs, and furnishing all coated in gold, and after all these centuries still pristine.

Boxes and boxes stacked waiting to be packed/unpacked.

Museum is right near protest square and next to the building burnt out in the first few days.

Nobody has any sympathy for ex president and his wife and can't wait to see them in prison for years and believe their illnesses are just a ploy.

We visited the papyrus museum where we saw paper being made in the way of the pharoahs and some of us purchased a genuine piece.

Returned to hotel and caught the overnight sleeper to Luxor - double berths private cabins boxed dinner, toilets - no comment!  Clickety clack up and down ladders all night.

Breakfast 5am and boarded horse and cart to Karnak Temple.  One of the most celebrated temple complexes.  Early start meant no tourists and we’re glad to be out before the heat and hordes arrived.

Boarded our cruiser - the Nile Dolphin - for four days of luxury then left for dinner at local restaurant - some of us went by donkey - an hilarious experience not to be missed.  Our route took us through local villages and we saw life which has not changed for centuries and then visited the local bazaar  - more like bizarre!!  Harrased by the locals desperate for a sale their incomes decimated by the revolution.  Ann got an offer of marriage and/or baby,  Pat and Annie have bleeding hearts - Pat buying bags of junk as she takes on responsibility for all children and can’t say no - engages small dirty boy in conversation - did he go to school - yes he learns english and scottish.  Pat asked where are parents. He said Mumma at home and baba.  Finished explanation little face on closed hands  - reply \\\'all finish!

Lorraine has learnt to say la Shokran and has been admired for her fine arabic. Tricia and Bet march resolutely on. Bet tells them to bugger off and they understand!

Jan can't help examining every piece of fabric and they pounce. Egyptians are consummate flatterers any thing for a pound .

The balloon ride over the Nile Delta and the Valley of Kings and Queens was spectacular we looked down on fertile plains of patchwork, fields farmers working in the half light - the sunrise was gorgeous with desert on one side palm trees mountains and valleys on the other. Pats DVD from little man videoing us is missing from our boat and has gone to another somewhere on the nile. About 420 boats on the Nile but Pat confident.

Entering the Valley of Kings and Queens was amazing and going down into some of the tombs was a wonderful experience. 

We have visited a Nubian school and had a meal with a nubian family on the roof of their house - having sailed serenly for a couple of hours on a Feluca.  Gorgeous, silent exotic and beautiful relaxation.

Our last night on board was an egyptian night - we all dressed up and had a wonderful time dancing singing and doing the Macarena.  We didn't even have to borrow the bedsheets to look Egyptian.  Fun fun fun all the way.

More to come when we get this Egyptian technology sussed!!

DUBAI AND CAIRO! WE'RE ON OUR WAY!

First days of our Adventure before Dementia

The flight from Auckland to Dubai seemed interminable and after saying we weren't going to eat anything we found ourselves studying the flight menu frequently - We made the most of liquid refreshments before arriving in countries where they are not so readily available!!!

The Airbus was huge and we were tucked away almost in the tail but overall a relatively comfortable flight!!

On arrival in Dubai we disembarked into the architecturally magnificent terminal.. No problems with Customs for any of us and we were met by reps from Arabian Tours and whisked away to the hotel - 6.45am. 

We were too hyped up to sleep so took to the streets to find money changers and coffee.  Temp about 37c and only mad dogs and elderly women go walking in the midday sun. 

Our tour leader(sic) hadn't researched the fact that taxis are cheaper than a cup of coffee, petrol 50c US LITRE -worth using if you don't want to get sunstroke!!!

Dubai is a city of contrasts -face of modern muslims alongside sophisticated Westerners.  A monument to western consumerism -  we found the locals charming and obliging.

We loved visiting Annie's cousin who is a renowned photographer and lives here permanently. We had breakfast outdoors at her lovely home and she did a photoshoot of us all for fun and record. She answered our myriad questions on living in Dubai with grace and generosity.

After leaving her home we took a bus tour of Dubai stopping off at the renowned Palm Islands, tallest building in the world and the indoor skifield, chairlift, skiruns and snow 12 months of the year and thousands of shops in the malls.

 A dinner on board a floating Dhow ended the day and this morning a visit to the Gold Souks in the old part of the city concluded our two days in Dubai.

Bye bye Dubai

 sadly no rich Sheiks in tow as yet!! And so onto Egypt…………

Contributed by us all !

CAIRO

After arriving into Cairo we had our senses well and truly assaulted on the ride into the city.  Modern hotel  an oasis right by the Pyramids with swimming pool etc  and early next morning we were on our way to Alexandria where we hotelled right on the boulevard along the seafront.  Teeming with traffic with locals casually stepping out into the middle of the road with no care and a complete confidence in the drivers to avoid them.  We enjoyed a meal at the Fish Markets – fresh and delicious and a stroll along the waterfront ( a la oriental Bay?) with locals greeting us and welcoming us to Egypt and thanking us for coming.  A demonstration in the local square was interesting and well run – they were supporting Libya in its bid for freedom from the Government. Tourists are very scarce – Saw only a couple of foreigners during our walks and the locals are very worried about the lack of tourists -  a major source of income but they are determined to hang in there until elections in September. The three main incomes for Egypt are Suez Canal, Oil ande Tourism.  The Suez is declining because of the size of container ships against the depth and width of the Canal.  They are looking to widen and deepen the Canal but need Cash to do it.

The world heritage Bibliographica Library was a highlight of our visit to Alex. One of the Seven Wonders of the World of ancient antiquities – even part of the Old Testament – 31 pages written on Deer Skin and sections of wonderful modern Art and Ceramics and Syrian and Iranian textiles and clothing.  Jann was in raptures.(As were we all)

The rubbish (probably been there for years) is piling up due to the infrastructure failing and is a sight to behold.  We took an hour to drive a few kilometers to the catacombs discovered in the early twenties after a donkey fell down a well and excavations begun on Roman burial grou nds.

Now back in Cairo after a, in parts, a hair-raising drive on a motorway under construction  and even did a dance with front end loader, steamroller and trucks . Just had a swim in hotel pool and tonight we meet the rest of the tour party and begin sightseeing around Cairo tomorrow.  Onto the train for overnight trip to Luxor where we pick up the luxury 4 day cruise down the Nile.

Happy Days!!!

Counting down!

Well - only 5 more sleeps and we're on our way.
We leave on Sunday morning - 5 of us from here in Wellington - and fly to Auckland where we are meeting the 6th member of our team.  Justine and Lissy and families are meeting us and we are going to Villa Maria Winery for lunch before returning to Airport for 6pm departure.
Annie - the seventh member is on her way as I write - to Dubai where she is going to stay with her cousin and is meeting up with us there.  Her cousin is an award winning photographer who wants to do a "photoshoot" of us old girls!!! I feel I will need considerable airbrushing!
OMG  now that's an interesting thought - WWIW ( what will I wear?)
I will just have to re-organise my clothes - yet again!
Betty has had a meltdown - she has just discovered that the zip on her bag is coming apart and last I talked to her she was pouring herself a stiff whisky and contemplating taking everything in a plastic bag!